Saturday, September 25, 2010

The Fishponds of Malabon

There was a time when the bangus (milkfish) fishponds of Malabon nearly dominated its landscape.

So much so that some long-time residents even think, at some point, the area covered by fishponds might have been almost the same or perhaps even a little more than the non-fishpond area.  This may just be perception, of course, or a belief based on a flawed or biased memory.

But no one could dispute the fact that back then, up to perhaps the 1960s -- a wide expanse of fishponds existed in Malabon, as far as the eye could see.  In fact, of the four major roads going out of Malabon, three used to be flanked on both sides by fishponds:  Letre Road and Governor Pascual Avenue, both going to Caloocan City, and Dampalit Road going to Obando, Bulacan.


Dagat-Dagatan fishponds along Letre Road in 1966  (Photo from S. T. Cajucom)

What made Malabon a natural environment for fishponds?  The first and most important reason is obvious:  proximity to Manila Bay with its rivers going inland, gives Malabon access to saltwater that could be used in fishponds.

Another is that the pond soil found in Malabon is fertile and suitable for the growth of natural fish food.  It is also the right kind of muddy soil called "labon" (thus, "Malabon" denoted a place of soft mud 1/) that could be made into fishpond dikes and at the same time was a natural habitat for mangrove trees (bakawan) with its spread-out roots serving to reinforce the dikes.


A LITTLE BACKGROUND ON WHAT USED TO BE ONE OF MALABON'S PRIMARY INDUSTRIES

The first fishpond was established in 1863 in Barrio Concepcion, Malabon, Rizal, by one Domingo Cornel.  His method became successful, that it was eventually followed not just by his townmates, but by neighboring towns and provinces as well:  Caloocan, Navotas, Obando, Polo, Bulacan, Hagonoy, and later in other coastal towns of Luzon.  Fishponds were constructed in all the municipalities bordering Manila and Lingayen Gulf. 2/

In the old days, local fishpond operators followed the traditional way of culturing bangus, where they would feed their stocks with natural food known as lablab (a type of algae). However, it was a tedious process.

To prepare a pond for growing the algae, water is drained first from the pond, then tobacco dust is scattered on the pond bottom in order to purge it of fish predators. The pond is then sun dried, and afterwards scattered with chicken manure with a little water let in from the river to moisten it.

When the algae growth is already satisfactory, more water is let in and the bangus fry or fingerlings are then transferred to that pond.  There are usually three kinds of divisions within a fishpond - nursery pond, formation pond and rearing pond - which is why you will see that most fishponds have divisions or boxes within them.

The bangus are transferred from one pond to the next, as they grow in size.  When the bangus have reached the desired size, they are harvested and sold through brokers at the fish market in Bayan or years ago, also in Hulo. 3/


At present, most fishpond operators (the few left in Malabon and those from Bulacan, Pangasinan and other areas involved in bangus farming) use commercial feeds for their stock, thus skipping the long and laborious pond preparation for growing algae.  It is said, however, that milkfish that grew on natural food is better-tasting.


WHAT HAS HAPPENED TO THE FISHPONDS OF MALABON?

You don't even need to go around Malabon nowadays to know that the bangus farming industry in Malabon is a dying industry.  A simple ride through either Letre Road or Governor Pascual Avenue alone will tell you so.  I can only think of one reason, which is the usual reason why a business closes down or does not thrive:  bangus fishpond farming is no longer as profitable.  After all, what businessman would give up a business if it were profitable?

But why is it happening in Malabon, and not to the many other fishpond operations in  Bulacan, Laguna, or Pangasinan?  Pollution is believed to be a likely major factor.  Because of the pollution in Manila Bay and the rivers of Malabon, the quality of the saltwater coming from them is no longer suitable for growing bangus.

Another likely reason we could think of is that, because of Malabon's proximity to Manila, the increase in the value of land now makes it more viable to turn fishponds into residential or commercial land.

There may be other factors unique to the individual fishpond operators that might have brought about the near-disappearance of the industry. But the result is the same: there are now only a few fishponds left in Malabon.  And I expect that it is only a matter of time before those fishponds also go the way of the many vanished fishponds before them.



A VANISHING SIGHT: MALABON FISHPOND AT DUSK

One late afternoon I decided to find myself some fishponds and take pictures.  Yes, find.  Unlike before when we used to see fishponds left and right whenever we headed out through Letre Road or Governor Pascual Avenue, now we have to go to some out-of-the-way place.

And yes, take pictures.  You see, I'm afraid that time will come when these pictures are all that our great grandchildren will ever get to see of the fishponds of Malabon...

Fishpond along Muzon road.  The sky at day's end and birds in flight combine with the fishpond to create a  stunning scene. 

What a peaceful scene.  Just one of the many reasons why I grew up loving Malabon.

Short stretch of road in Muzon with fishponds on both sides - one of the remaining few...  (I wanted to take the picture from the middle of the road so I could show the fishpond on the right side as well.  But I was afraid of getting run over!)




1/    From Tambobong to City of Malabon by Nonoy Marcelo, 2004
2/    History of Malabon-Navotas by Salvador Sevilla, Santos Tiangco, 1976 (quoting Census of the Phil. 1918, Vol. IV, 
       Part 1, page 588).
3/    Info on pond preparation procedures provided by my husband.

.

22 comments:

  1. I do remember the fishponds in Letre and quite vividly too. My grandparents used to have a house in the middle of all those fishponds and I always looked forward to weekends when I would walk the distance to get to their house.

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  2. It's been so long since I've been home and this brings a lot of wonderful chhildhood memories. By the way, is the "Fish Fun" restaurant still in operation?

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  3. Anonymous 1 - Those were the days when fishponds seemed to stretch into the horizon out there in Letre. Those days are now just for reminiscing..

    Thanks for dropping by.

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  4. Anonymous 2 - Thanks for your comment. You may not recognize Malabon anymore when you come home!

    "Fish Fun" has been replaced by "Pescadores" with the same owners. I'll be writing about it hopefully soon.

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  5. I remember the fishponds very well. Oh, the joy of feeling the cold breeze from this pond! Passing by them refreshed me as a child. The images of Malabon fishponds dominates my childhood memory. Muzon, the ponds at the Pascual Ave and the one going to Obando. I remember them all so vividly, even the odor!

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  6. The old houses are a joy to see!!!Thank you for capturing them for posterity. The old house of the Martinez at C. Arellano is another one to see, it is also beautiful inside as I remember it a long time ago. Love the history of the tramvia! The fishponds disappearance saddens me a lot for I really miss the scenery, the breeze, and the memories it evokes! I use to walk the pilapil in Dampalit to go to my bestfriend rest house in the midle of the palaisdaan and it was an experience. Well they say that is progress....what we pay for progress......a lot....but what can we do,it is part of evolution. Keep on doing what you are doing for you are making life's big changes a little better to bear.

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  7. The sad part is that almost the whole area of what was used to be fish ponds (imagine this!) is full of SQUATTERS, ILLEGAL SETTLERS, ILLEGAL REGIONAL MIGRANTS, or whatever, (take note) from Governor Pascual Avenue to Letre Road.

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  8. @The Golden Monstrance - I can totally relate to your reminiscences. Those were wonderful days that now belong only to memory. Thanks for sharing!

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  9. @Anonymous 3 - I'm glad you enjoyed viewing the old houses! I wish I could get to see the Martinez House interior, too, as I hear it is also well-preserved.

    I realize that there's a price to pay for progress -- but I hope it won't be our rich heritage! It's the most precious legacy we can leave to future generations.

    Thank you for sharing and for your encouragement.

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  10. @Anonymous 4 - It's truly sad to see how the face of Malabon has changed in ways that we can't be happy about. But this situation is not unique to Malabon - it is also happening elsewhere and appears to be symptomatic of what ails our society in general.

    Let's pray that things will be resolved in time.

    Thanks for dropping by.

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  11. I fully remember when I was still a kid, passing through Letre road Fish Pond connecting Malabon, Navotas and Caloocan. And even during typhoon or storm seldom theres flood, and if ever there's flood easily subsides after several hours. Unlike now, with the project of Dagat-dagatan, Kapibahayan, a natural water resevoir was transformed into land (commercials and squatters) during Marcos regime and results was uncontrollable flood every month during high tide. Imagine even during summer and its high tide theres flood... Poor Malabon, My Beloved Malabon... the government the people abuse you.

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  12. Anonymous 5 - I, and so many long-time residents of Malabon agree with you that the ill-conceived Dagat-Dagatan project of the 70s was a major cause of this terrible flooding problem we are now experiencing. Dagat-dagatan was a natural catchbasin for flood waters, and they covered it up. Where else will the floodwater go now but to our streets and homes?

    I guess the people of Malabon have no choice but to grin and bear it -- what is done is done. What we have to hope & pray for now is that our present leaders will have the political will and capability to do something about the problems that resulted from that Marcos-era mistake.

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  13. Thanks for writing article, it brings back memories. Time changed the place so much it's not the same anymore. We have a lot of fishponds in Dampalit but pollution made it harder to make a decent production. The air used to be good, but that changed in the 80's or 90's, really sad.

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  14. Anonymous 6 - Thank you for your comment.

    I agree with you -- Time has changed Malabon so much that sometimes you don't recognize it anymore. Pollution has also affected the quality of life in our hometown. But I'm still hoping that things will become better soon...

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  15. May I just add, as a member of one of the Malabon families that owned and operated fishponds in Obando, Bulacan, that the unpredictable weather nowadays had led the family to eventually give up its fishpond operations. When my husband started getting into the business, he was so disappointed with the coming of continuous rains outside of the rainy season, just when a couple of weeks before, they had placed in fresh fingerlings that cost the family over a million pesos. So, everything just overflowed out of the fishponds!

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  16. I'm so glad to see your pictures of the fishponds along Letre and Gov. Pascual - they really were a few of the things that were worth going through, seeing and experiencing when visiting home. These were the good 'scenery breaks' after going through the long row of shanties.

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  17. updanzprof -Thank you for both your comments.

    Your added insight on what led your husband's family give up its fishpond operations is especially relevant nowadays when it seems that weather patterns are getting all messed up due to global warming/climate change.

    And yes, the remaining fishponds of Malabon are a welcome sight after the long row of shanties. I hope they don't totally vanish because they are a part of Malabon's heritage.

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  18. mr anonymous, please blog more about Malabon, most especislly the theaters that once became famous, like Ultravista, Concepcion, Pilipinas, and the other two cinemas in Gen. Luna St. makulay ang malabon nuon pa. bakit di na ba kayang ibalik ulit yun.

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  19. JM Santos - What a coincidence that my husband and I were just reminiscing about those old theaters this morning before I read your comment. The other two cinemas on Gen. Luna St. were Leonor & Estrella.

    I hope to write about the old cinemas of Malabon one of these days.

    Thank you for your comment.

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  20. I'm on your 3rd blog now. Happy to have stumbled on your site. Learning so much about old Malabon. Thanks so much for sharing and writing about these.

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  21. Thanks for your comment. Am also happy to be discovering so much about old Malabon - and sharing them with you.

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  22. Please feature other sites in areas of potrero, tugatog, acacia. maysilo panghulo tenejeros and santulan..tnx

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